http://legacy.sweetmarias.com/library/node/9239
Roasting Guatemala and other Washed Central American Coffees
High grown washed Central American coffees are practically the
control coffee when it comes to roasting, the coffees that roast just
like they should. They take the heat up front, change color evenly,
charge into 1st Crack with gusto and with a definitive finish. On top of
all that, they are perhaps the most versatile as far as roast level and
roast development, with a plenty of exciting and intensely sweet
characteristics expressed from City to Full City+. They also have a lot
of room to move the characteristics across the palate and create a 3
dimensional profile.
高海拔中美洲咖啡是很穩定的好控制的咖啡,吸熱變色到一爆都很均勻,各種烘法都能保持一定的水準。
The number one fundamental of washed Centrals in my mind is sweetness
and the way that you can present the whole range of development of that
sweetness. Some washed South American coffees also share this trait and
you can include them here, especially Colombians. African coffees can
have the vibrant and exotic fruit and floral attributes, and Indonesian
and Pulped Natural coffees have the more rustic type of sweetness, but
Washed Centrals can be deeply and expressively sweet in a truly
remarkable way.
Lighter roasts without that much sugar development show more of the
malty sweetness, but that malty sweetness can also express itself as
graham cracker or wafer cookie. Developing the roast a little more moves
you into the intense candy-like sweetness, followed by the more fruited
sweetness like that found in cherries and other stone fruits, unique
fruitiness from citric and malic fruitiness. Continuing to develop the
roast leads to a fruity chocolate sweetness and then mild bitterness
from caramelization expresses a more dark cocoa character with some
vanilla.
在我心中 中美洲咖啡最重要的一點就是甜度的發展,有一些南美洲咖啡也有這樣的特質,尤其是Colombia, 非洲咖啡刺激的花果香甜,以及印尼和亞洲豆有的泥土甜,跟中美洲富有深度和表現力的甜是截然不同。當淺烘焙時,甜度尚未完全發展,會顯出一些麥芽甜,類似像全麥餅乾或威化餅。如果稍微深一點,甜度會再發展成糖果甜,這時會隨著表現出比較多水果甜,類似櫻桃或者核果類水果,甚至還有比較特別的像是柑橘或瓜果類的香。若再烘的更深,就會出現水果口味的巧克力甜,或者焦糖化的苦味像是黑巧克力混和香草的味道。
This is the sweetness development path of most coffees, but I feel
like Washed Centrals showcase this development in the clearest possible
way. And of course Washed Centrals can show floral and more exotic fruit
notes, but it is this sweetness that is integral. The other side of
that coin is balance. In order to best express the sweetness of a Washed
Central, you also want to develop the roast so that there is as much
balance between the acidity and mouthfeel as possible. That balance best
showcases the clarity in a well sorted and processed coffee, which in
turn allows the sweetness to be the star of the show. Because the
acidity can be so brilliant and crystal clear there is always a
temptation to roast the coffee to highlight that, but it can be just as
brilliant if the roast is used to highlight and promote sweetness.
In the
Stretching out the Roast article and the
Cuptoberfest 2013 video I
talk about the architecture of a coffee. What I'm referring to is
mostly where on the palate you taste/experience the acidity of a coffee.
This location has a great impact on how the coffee tastes and feels. If
you experience the acidity on the very front of the palate, usually the
result of underdevelopment, there is an immediate intensity but then
the finish is dry and vapid, not very sweet at all. If the acidity has
been flattened out by over-development then the coffee feels undefined
and without architecture. While the sweetness can still be present in
this profile, the lack of any other dimension fails to feature it at its
best. Developing the roast so that the acidity is experienced somewhere
with some range across the palate can provide a depth of field that
allows not only the sweetness to be experienced throughout the palate,
but also for all of the exciting other flavor characteristics to be
fully expressed.