日曬豆的烘焙

http://legacy.sweetmarias.com/library/node/9234

日曬豆的烘焙

Roasting Dry Processed Coffees

pan roasted DP coffee in Michiti Ethiopia

Dry processed coffees are becoming fruitier and fruitier. This is mostly because there is a lot more sorting of cherry going on these days in this processing method, both by hand and with equipment designed to wash and sort the cherry before drying on patios or raised beds. The traditionally more rustic and earthy flavors in dry processed coffees are giving way to cleaner and brighter fruits. Even in the "natural" processed coffees of Brazil, there is more and more sorting being done. Yes, many Fazendas still mechanically strip-pick the coffees, but there is intensive sorting going on there as well, and there are more producers working towards more selective picking.

日曬豆變得越來越有水果味 ，這主要是因為日曬法的分級漸漸採用人工或水洗設備來處理，並且在上架乾燥前就先分級。傳統日曬法帶有的質樸土地味道在處理方式的改進下越來越少，即使是巴西的自然日曬處理法，其分級的處理也越來越細緻。
許多莊園（巴西語Fazenda）仍然採用機械化脫殼去皮處理咖啡，但是分級也一樣比起以前越來越嚴格。

The more earthy and rustic characteristics of the traditional dry processed (DP) coffees required roasting that helped to bring out the sweetness of those coffees, pushing the caramelization more into where there were more bittersweet cocoa notes. In lighter roasts these coffees were rough and gritty, with so much texture in them that you could chew them. These coffees needed roasting that took the edge off of the earthiness. Longer drying times and stretched 1st Cracks, and even some smoothing out post 1st Crack and roasting more into the Full City neighborhood in order to bring out the cocoa.


傳統日曬法咖啡豆會帶有比較強烈的質樸泥土味譜，烘焙時需要更多焦糖化反應以帶出咖啡的甜味以及苦甜巧克力味。 若是較淺焙咖啡會顯得粗糙或沙感。這些咖啡需要烘焙到幾乎去除泥土味。較長的乾燥時間並且延長一爆的時間，甚至一爆之後再繼續烘到接近Full city以帶出巧克力味。
This approach to roasting had and has a lot to do with the mixed density of the beans. In the traditional dry processing method there is a layer of sorting and separation that is missing and which results in the green coffee having a wide variation in density and bean size. Sorting the green coffee could result in a cup with less "noise" in it, but you could also lose a great deal of the other characteristics of the coffee that you did enjoy in the coffee as well as just adding unnecessary labor. I say "has as lot to do with the mixed density" because even though there is better sorting for defects which add more of the unpleasant characteristics to the cup, the end result still is pretty mixy density wise. This is noticeable in the roast by the way that the coffee seems to drag it's way into the 1st Crack and then in how the 1st Crack doesn't seem to ever stop. Lighter density coffee start popping quietly a little early, and then the more dense beans don't start to pop until most of the rest of the charge has already finished popping. This itself also adds to a lack of clarity in the cup, particularly with the more fruited notes.

這種烘法主要是針對日曬豆大小及密度不均的狀況。即使已經去除瑕疵豆，味道的複雜和不均一 仍是日曬豆的特性。密度低的豆子會先開始一爆，而密度高的呢
甚至到其他豆子都一爆完了還沒開始一爆。這種不均的現象，會讓泡出來的咖啡欠缺清澈感。

One fix to this issue is simply to push a little harder into the 1st Crack just before it starts. At around 365F degrees, depending on your roaster model, changing the air flow or energy input in a way to put more energy on the coffee in order to get more of the charge popping at the same time. If you were to look at an XY axis roast diagram, in most cases you'd see a slight decrease in the rate of rise right at this point as the beans absorb the energy and get ready to pop. In a coffee with a more even density, this wouldn't affect that way that the 1st Crack begins as dramatically as in a DP coffee. In DP brazils you do have to be careful however as the coffees can take off on you at this point if you don't pull back on the energy input soon enough once the 1st Crack is rolling.

解決的辦法，在一爆之前加強火力。365華氏 = 197度 攝氏左右 加強熱火熱火。
使一爆更均一開始。但一爆開始後就要收火

You'd still want to pull back on the energy input with DP Ethiopias once the 1st Crack is rolling but it is vital that you don't pull back too early. One of the most common mistakes made with DP coffees is pulling back much too early once the 1st Crack is engaged. This tends to stall out the 1st Crack, or at least drag it out, so that it takes a lot of the vibrancy out of the fruitiness. If you're roasting to really get that fruit to pop, you want a condensed and boisterous 1st Crack. The pops themselves tend to be a little quieter in DP coffees because of density and moisture content issues, but you should still be able to get a boisterous 1st Crack if you're able to get the majority of the beans popping together. There may still be a few stragglers but not nearly as many if you weren't to push into 1st. Dropping the roast just 15 - 30 seconds after the end of the 1st will get you that really snappy tart fruit. The deeper you roast from this point you'll still get some of that fruit with some diminishing but also more roast bitterness as you get into 2nd Crack.

收火 可是不能收的太早。這會妨礙一爆的發展。若要引發果香，必須要有密集劇烈的一爆。日曬豆有時會一爆聲音很小，因為其密度很高而且濕氣藏在組織裡。
一爆之後 再15-30秒 會讓你得到滿滿的豐富果香味。
超過這個點 再烘焙更深 果香就會衰減苦味會加重

Another approach to roasting DP coffees in a way where the fruited notes will still be clearly stated but where you can also get a sweeter more cocoa focused finish (rather than just the snappy tartness of the fruit turning more towards sharp bitterness) is to stretch out the drying stage. This is a pretty great approach in general when working with earthier coffees, but even in cleaner DP coffees this approach is really helpful in being able to work towards a sweeter finish. A longer drying phase allows more of the mixed density beans to normalize before any browning occurs, which makes building to a more unison 1st Crack a lot easier. You can still push into 1st Crack at this point, but you shouldn't need to push as hard. Just make sure it's a solid boisterous 1st Crack.

snappy tartness - 尖酸

另一個方法是延長乾燥期，尤其是帶有土地味的日曬豆。但即使是口味清澈的豆子，也一樣有幫助，讓咖啡口感的尾韻帶甜。較長的乾燥期，可能不同含水量 不同密度的豆子趨向同質。進而讓一爆均勻發生。用這個方法 一爆時比較不用用力升溫。

I never like to extend the 1st Crack itself because I feel like it just tends to flatten the cup and you really are flirting with baking and stalling caramelization doing this, which in a DP coffee is really extra gross. You can add maybe 15-30 seconds to the 1st at this point to try to add a little more texture to the mouthfeel, but extending it towards a full minute or more is definitely not recommended. You're looking for more of a 1:30 but under 2:00 minute 1st Crack time. With an extended drying phase, it may take some of the punch out of the fruit, but the finishes tend to longer and sweeter. The finish can be more and more syrupy when dropped at the right point after the end of 1st, 30 to even 45 seconds after the end moving closer to the start of 2nd which you can do with this roast without it being too bitter.


我不喜歡延長一爆後的時間，我認為他會讓味道扁平失去風味，但在日曬豆上不是如此。
你可以加15-30妙在一爆增加濃稠口感。 但是如果你增加近一分鐘，則不建議。