2015年7月19日 星期日

Kenya 的烘焙

http://legacy.sweetmarias.com/library/content/roasting-kenyas

Kenyan coffees are high grown, immaculately prepared and processed, well-bred varieties that roast up evenly and beautifully and can be incredibly forgiving to a variety of roast profiles. The most common Kenyas for a long time were the AA's, but now AB's and Peaberries are quite prevalent. The issue was that many considered this "grading" to be just that, a quality grade, when in fact it is only a size separation.

肯亞咖啡 是高海拔咖啡 種植和處理的品質都很高 , 大小均一讓烘焙容易平均漂亮 且適合各式各樣ˋ的烘焙度
早期肯亞標示AA 但現在AB 或者圓豆 也比較常見了 , 其實分級只是表示豆粒的尺寸,並不必然表示品質的高下
Coffees from each of these grades can have the quintessential Kenya qualities, and while there can be differences between how a peaberry and an AA take heat and move into and through first crack, they're subtle differences since all of these grades have substantial density. The main thing with roasting a Kenya is that you want to really bring out the sweetly fruited acidity while also showcasing the creamy or juicy (weighted) mouthfeel. Because of the brilliant acidity in coffees from Kenya, many roasters roast these very very light in order to try to promote it, but the truly sweet berry-like acidity beyond the citric lie just a little bit deeper into the roast and can even be still quite prominent in an Full City roast.

每種分級 例如AA和 圓豆 代表不同典型 其傳熱的速度 和密度都不相同, 烘焙肯亞的重點
是必須帶出水果甜酸 且同時展現綿密或多汁的口感 。因為肯亞有明亮的酸味,所以很多人都把肯亞烘得非常淺試圖凸顯酸的特色,但是甜的苺果酸(而非檸檬酸)必須要烘的深一點,而且他的酸味甚至在Full city都還能跳出來
In fact, very light roasts of Kenyas can be starchy with strong notes of banana esters and citric brightness, and malty and cereal-like in the finish. Full City roasts can be loaded with caramel and cocoa or even tootsie roll type sweetness while still showing some berry-like acidity through to the finish, but City and City+ roasts are where these coffees truly shine. At the City+ roast level the fruited notes can have the crystal clear brightness with berry notes, tropical fruit notes from phospheric acids, or even sparkling white grape.

事實上 極輕烘焙的肯亞會帶有澱粉口感且帶有香蕉油和檸檬的明亮酸味 , 尾韻帶有泥沙感或者穀物的味道, Full city可帶有焦糖味 巧克力 和棒棒糖的甜感 而同時帶有明亮的苺果酸味
但是City or City + 風味可說還沒完全展現 。 City + 水果味可帶有清澈的苺果傾向 熱帶水果酸 或者白葡萄
The floral qualities of Kenyan can be intensely aromatic, and in some cases meld together with spice note, creating a floral clove flavor. In Kenyas with these spice notes, roast plays a large role in integrated those flavors into the whole experience in a way that that keeps them from being too percussive and instead add complexity to the sweetness.

肯亞的花香特質很強烈 甚至帶有香料味 ,帶有這種特質的肯亞豆 烘焙就扮演了很重要的角色
必須要把味道融合再一起使其複雜中帶有甜味
One of the keys to a really well roasted Kenya lies in the drying stage of the roast. By doing a slightly slower drying stage at the beginning of the roast you can push the sweetness as well as help develop the mouthfeel. You can also help the mouthfeel by making sure that you have a robust first crack but to not rush through it. The first crack is the point of the roast where the cellular structure of the bean is at its most elastic and there is a breakdown of the carbohydrates that lend themselves to mouthfeel.

烘焙肯亞的要訣 其一在脫水期 , 延長脫水期可使甜感增加 並豐富口感
你也可以加強口感 使一爆劇烈 但是不要太快通過 。一爆是烘焙過程中細胞組織最有彈性
而且碳水化合物會分解 使口感增加
In roasting Peaberries and AB coffees from the same coffee factory, I’ve found the roasts with a slightly extended drying stage were not only more weighted in the mouthfeel, but this also lead to more expressive fragrances, aromas, and flavors in general. These roasts with the extended drying stage also where much more open and bright on day one out of the roaster than the roasts with a shorter drying stage. On day 2 out of the roaster the sweetness was intense and candy like. This is one of the most important things to consider when tasting Kenyas, that the coffees really need at least 2 days of rest out of the roaster to really show everything they've got and can continue to open up while retaining their brilliance over the next couple days as well.

烘焙圓豆 或者 ab等級的豆子 延長脫水期 不但會增加口感 而且還會讓香氣增加,
肯亞 需要兩天的養豆以展現所有的風味

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